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Selected and introduced by Juli Carson, this book presents a collection of essential essays, interviews, and never-before published archival materials that trace the development of the teaching of major artist and thinker Mary Kelly, from 1980-2017. As an artist and a theorist, Kelly is known for her foundational contributions to Feminism and Conceptual Art; she is also revered for her innovative pedagogy, which has influenced countless artists, writers and teachers within the international art community. Her description of a feminist practice of concentric pedagogy, centred on the artwork rather the mastery of the teacher, radically changed teaching practice in art studios. Detailing Kelly's innovative pedagogical program, the essays are split into three sections: The Method, which focuses on Kelly's renowned method of ethical observation within studio critique; The Project, which explores her notion of what constitutes an artistic project; and Project and Method in the Field which presents, for the first time, a transcription of On the Passage of a Few People though a Rather Brief Period of Time, a performative colloquy commissioned by the Tate Modern and moderated by Kelly in 2015; following this transcription is a portfolio of practicing artists previously enrolled in Kelly's Interdisciplinary Studio Area at UCLA. Mary Kelly's Concentric Pedagogy highlights how contemporary studio teaching practice has been largely informed by Kelly's bold and innovative approach to art pedagogy, evidencing how the intersection of teaching, artistic practice, and radical political engagement can transform our approach to all three. It is essential reading for students and teachers of art and design studio practice, art history and theory, contemporary, and feminist art.
Book Synopsis Mary Kelly's Concentric Pedagogy by : Mary Kelly
Download or read book Mary Kelly's Concentric Pedagogy written by Mary Kelly and published by Bloomsbury Publishing. This book was released on 2024-01-25 with total page 585 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Selected and introduced by Juli Carson, this book presents a collection of essential essays, interviews, and never-before published archival materials that trace the development of the teaching of major artist and thinker Mary Kelly, from 1980-2017. As an artist and a theorist, Kelly is known for her foundational contributions to Feminism and Conceptual Art; she is also revered for her innovative pedagogy, which has influenced countless artists, writers and teachers within the international art community. Her description of a feminist practice of concentric pedagogy, centred on the artwork rather the mastery of the teacher, radically changed teaching practice in art studios. Detailing Kelly's innovative pedagogical program, the essays are split into three sections: The Method, which focuses on Kelly's renowned method of ethical observation within studio critique; The Project, which explores her notion of what constitutes an artistic project; and Project and Method in the Field which presents, for the first time, a transcription of On the Passage of a Few People though a Rather Brief Period of Time, a performative colloquy commissioned by the Tate Modern and moderated by Kelly in 2015; following this transcription is a portfolio of practicing artists previously enrolled in Kelly's Interdisciplinary Studio Area at UCLA. Mary Kelly's Concentric Pedagogy highlights how contemporary studio teaching practice has been largely informed by Kelly's bold and innovative approach to art pedagogy, evidencing how the intersection of teaching, artistic practice, and radical political engagement can transform our approach to all three. It is essential reading for students and teachers of art and design studio practice, art history and theory, contemporary, and feminist art.
Ever since the mid-nineteenth century, when the new medium of photography was pressed into service to illustrate sculpture, photographs of sculptural objects have directed viewers as to what, in the course of ambling around a sculpture, was the single perfect moment to stop and look. What is the photograph’s place in writing the history of sculpture? How has it changed according to culture, generation, criti-cal conviction, and changes in media? Photography and Sculpture: The Art Object in Reproduction studies aspects of these questions from the perspectives of sixteen leading art historians. Their essays consider iconic photographs, archival collections, new and forgotten technologies, and conceptual challenges in photographing three-dimensional forms that have directed changing historical and stylistic attitudes about how we see, write about, and narrate histories of sculpture. Chapters on such varied topics as picturing Conceptual art, manipulating sacred images in India to be non-photographs, and framing Roman art with an iPad illustrate the latent visual and narrative powers and ever-expanding potential of these images of sculpture.
Book Synopsis Photography and Sculpture by : Sarah Hamill
Download or read book Photography and Sculpture written by Sarah Hamill and published by Getty Publications. This book was released on 2018-01-02 with total page 314 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Ever since the mid-nineteenth century, when the new medium of photography was pressed into service to illustrate sculpture, photographs of sculptural objects have directed viewers as to what, in the course of ambling around a sculpture, was the single perfect moment to stop and look. What is the photograph’s place in writing the history of sculpture? How has it changed according to culture, generation, criti-cal conviction, and changes in media? Photography and Sculpture: The Art Object in Reproduction studies aspects of these questions from the perspectives of sixteen leading art historians. Their essays consider iconic photographs, archival collections, new and forgotten technologies, and conceptual challenges in photographing three-dimensional forms that have directed changing historical and stylistic attitudes about how we see, write about, and narrate histories of sculpture. Chapters on such varied topics as picturing Conceptual art, manipulating sacred images in India to be non-photographs, and framing Roman art with an iPad illustrate the latent visual and narrative powers and ever-expanding potential of these images of sculpture.
Rarely has an artist been so closely associated with a single work as is Jay DeFeo with her painting "The Rose". In this major study of "The Rose" in particular and of Jay DeFeo in general, 11 art and cultural historians and writers unfold the story of the creation and rescue of her masterpiece.
Book Synopsis Jay DeFeo and The Rose by : Jay DeFeo
Download or read book Jay DeFeo and The Rose written by Jay DeFeo and published by Univ of California Press. This book was released on 2003-11-13 with total page 217 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Rarely has an artist been so closely associated with a single work as is Jay DeFeo with her painting "The Rose". In this major study of "The Rose" in particular and of Jay DeFeo in general, 11 art and cultural historians and writers unfold the story of the creation and rescue of her masterpiece.
This collection of unique works by 150 Los Angeles graffiti and tattoo artists represents an unprecedented collaboration across the city’s diverse artistic landscape. Many graffiti artists carry sketchbooks, called black books, and they ask crew members and others whose work they admire to inscribe their books with lettering or drawings. A few years ago, the Getty Research Institute invited artists, including Angst, Axis, Big Sleeps, Chaz, Cre8, Defer, EyeOne, Fishe, Heaven, Hyde, Look, ManOne, and Prime, to consider the idea of a citywide graffiti black book. During visits to the Getty Center, the artists viewed rare books related to calligraphy and letterforms, including works by Albrecht Dürer and Leonardo da Vinci. The artists instantly recognized the connections to their own practices and were particularly drawn to a liber amicorum (book of friends), a form of autograph book popular in the seventeenth century. Passed from hand to hand, it was filled with signatures, poetry, and coats of arms, like a black book from another era. Inspired by this meeting of minds across centuries, these artists became both creators and curators, crafting their own pages and inviting others to contribute. Eventually 150 Los Angeles artists decorated 143 individual pages. These were bound together into an exquisite artists’ book that became known as the Getty Graffiti Black Book. This publication reproduces each page from the original artists’ book and recounts the story of an unprecedented collaboration across the diverse artistic landscape of Los Angeles.
Book Synopsis LA Graffiti Black Book by : David Brafman
Download or read book LA Graffiti Black Book written by David Brafman and published by Getty Publications. This book was released on 2021-04-13 with total page 178 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This collection of unique works by 150 Los Angeles graffiti and tattoo artists represents an unprecedented collaboration across the city’s diverse artistic landscape. Many graffiti artists carry sketchbooks, called black books, and they ask crew members and others whose work they admire to inscribe their books with lettering or drawings. A few years ago, the Getty Research Institute invited artists, including Angst, Axis, Big Sleeps, Chaz, Cre8, Defer, EyeOne, Fishe, Heaven, Hyde, Look, ManOne, and Prime, to consider the idea of a citywide graffiti black book. During visits to the Getty Center, the artists viewed rare books related to calligraphy and letterforms, including works by Albrecht Dürer and Leonardo da Vinci. The artists instantly recognized the connections to their own practices and were particularly drawn to a liber amicorum (book of friends), a form of autograph book popular in the seventeenth century. Passed from hand to hand, it was filled with signatures, poetry, and coats of arms, like a black book from another era. Inspired by this meeting of minds across centuries, these artists became both creators and curators, crafting their own pages and inviting others to contribute. Eventually 150 Los Angeles artists decorated 143 individual pages. These were bound together into an exquisite artists’ book that became known as the Getty Graffiti Black Book. This publication reproduces each page from the original artists’ book and recounts the story of an unprecedented collaboration across the diverse artistic landscape of Los Angeles.
In the tradition of Jane Jacobs’ The Death and Life of Great American Cities comes an urgent plea from internationally renowned art historian Salvatore Settis to preserve Venice’s future. What is Venice worth? To whom does this urban treasure belong? Venetians are increasingly abandoning their hometown — there’s now only one resident for every 140 visitors — and Venice’s fragile fate has become emblematic of the future of historic cities everywhere as it capitulates to tourists and those who profit from them. In If Venice Dies, a fiery blend of history and cultural analysis, internationally renowned art historian Savatore Settis argues that “hit-and-run” visitors are turning landmark urban settings into shopping malls and theme parks. He warns that Western civilization’s prime achievements face impending ruin from mass tourism and global cultural homogenization. This is a passionate plea to secure Venice’s future, written with consummate authority, wide-ranging erudition, and élan.
Book Synopsis If Venice Dies by : Salvatore Settis
Download or read book If Venice Dies written by Salvatore Settis and published by House of Anansi. This book was released on 2016-09-10 with total page 192 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In the tradition of Jane Jacobs’ The Death and Life of Great American Cities comes an urgent plea from internationally renowned art historian Salvatore Settis to preserve Venice’s future. What is Venice worth? To whom does this urban treasure belong? Venetians are increasingly abandoning their hometown — there’s now only one resident for every 140 visitors — and Venice’s fragile fate has become emblematic of the future of historic cities everywhere as it capitulates to tourists and those who profit from them. In If Venice Dies, a fiery blend of history and cultural analysis, internationally renowned art historian Savatore Settis argues that “hit-and-run” visitors are turning landmark urban settings into shopping malls and theme parks. He warns that Western civilization’s prime achievements face impending ruin from mass tourism and global cultural homogenization. This is a passionate plea to secure Venice’s future, written with consummate authority, wide-ranging erudition, and élan.
Available for a limited time, this artist’s book by renowned visual artist Tacita Dean explores her chance encounters with objects in the archives of the Getty Research Institute. As the Getty Research Institute artist in residence in 2014–15, Tacita Dean was asked to define a subject and identify a path of research. What she proposed instead was a project titled “The Importance of Objective Chance as a Tool of Research.” Her idea was to allow chance to be her guide. Dean researched randomly, picking out boxes from the collections without knowing their contents, meandering through objects and images from sources as varied as medieval alchemy books to twentieth-century artist letters. Monet Hates Me features reproductions of fifty artworks she created from Getty’s archival holdings along with enlightening texts that expand on her method of research and illustrate her encounters with the archives.
Book Synopsis Monet Hates Me by : Tacita Dean
Download or read book Monet Hates Me written by Tacita Dean and published by Getty Publications. This book was released on 2021-11-16 with total page 368 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Available for a limited time, this artist’s book by renowned visual artist Tacita Dean explores her chance encounters with objects in the archives of the Getty Research Institute. As the Getty Research Institute artist in residence in 2014–15, Tacita Dean was asked to define a subject and identify a path of research. What she proposed instead was a project titled “The Importance of Objective Chance as a Tool of Research.” Her idea was to allow chance to be her guide. Dean researched randomly, picking out boxes from the collections without knowing their contents, meandering through objects and images from sources as varied as medieval alchemy books to twentieth-century artist letters. Monet Hates Me features reproductions of fifty artworks she created from Getty’s archival holdings along with enlightening texts that expand on her method of research and illustrate her encounters with the archives.
In the 1970s, Kelly's transgressive projects helped to instigate conceptual art's second phase; her daring critiques of the female body as a fetishized, allegorized, commodified site were debated long after they were first seen in galleries and discussed in catalogues, and long before the debut of the "bad girls" in the 1990s. In fact, the debates currently surrounding Kelly's work are a necessary and defining element of theoretical discourse about art today.
Book Synopsis Imaging Desire by : Mary Kelly
Download or read book Imaging Desire written by Mary Kelly and published by MIT Press. This book was released on 1998 with total page 288 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In the 1970s, Kelly's transgressive projects helped to instigate conceptual art's second phase; her daring critiques of the female body as a fetishized, allegorized, commodified site were debated long after they were first seen in galleries and discussed in catalogues, and long before the debut of the "bad girls" in the 1990s. In fact, the debates currently surrounding Kelly's work are a necessary and defining element of theoretical discourse about art today.
A comprehensive compendium of artists and writers confronting questions of Black identity, activism and social responsibility in the age of Malcolm X and the Black Panthers, based on the landmark traveling exhibition What is "Black art"? This question was posed and answered time and time again between 1960 and 1980 by artists, curators and critics deeply affected by this turbulent period of radical social and political upheaval in America. Rather than answering in one way, they argued for radically different ideas of what "Black art" meant. Across newspapers and magazines, catalogs, pamphlets, interviews, public talks and panel discussions, a lively debate emerged between artists and others to address profound questions of how Black artists should or should not deal with politics, about what audiences they should address and inspire, where they should try to exhibit, how their work should be curated, and whether there was or was not such a category as "Black art" in the first place. Conceived as a reader connected to the landmark exhibition Soul of a Nation: Art in the Age of Black Power, which shone a light on the vital contributions made by Black artists over two decades, this anthology collects over 150 texts from the artists, critics, curators and others who sought to shape and define the art of their time. Exhaustively researched and edited by exhibition curator Mark Godfrey, who provides the substantial introduction, and Allie Biswas, included are rare and out-of-print texts from artists and writers, as well as texts published for the first time ever. Contributors include: Lawrence Alloway, Emma Amos, Benny Andrews, Tomei Arai, Ralph Arnold, Dore Ashton, Malcolm Bailey, Amiri Baraka, Romare Beardon, Fred Beauford, Cleveland Bellow, LeGrace G. Benson, Dawoud Bey, Camille Billops, Lula Mae Blocton, Gloria Bohanon, Claude Booker, Frank Bowling, David Bradford, Peter Bradley, Gwendolyn Brooks, Kay Brown, Milton Brown, Vivian Browne, Linda G. Bryant, Margaret G. Burroughs, Debbie Butterfield, Steve Cannon, Yvonne Parks Catchings, Elizabeth Catlett, Dana Chandler, Claudia Chapline, Charles Childs, A.D. Coleman, Dan Concholar, John Coplans, Hugh M. Davies, Douglas Davis, Bing Davis, Alonzo Davis, Dale Davis, Melvin Dixon, Jeff Donaldson, Robert Doty, Emory Douglas, John Dowell, Louis Draper, David C. Driskell, Tony Eaton, Eugene Eda, Melvin Edwards, Ray Elkins, Ralph Ellison, Elton Fax, Elsa Honig Fine, Frederick Fisk, Babatunde Folayemi, Clebert Ford, Edmund Barry Gaither, Addison Gayle, Henri Ghent, Ray Gibson, Sam Gilliam, Robert H. Glauber, Lynda Goode-Bryant, Allan M. Gordon, Earl G. Graves, Carroll Greene, Abdul Hakimu ibn Halkalimat, David Hammons, David Henderson, Napoleon Henderson, M.J. Hewitt, Richard Hunt, Sam Hunter, Josine Ianco-Starrels, Nigel Jackson, Jay Jacobs, Joseph Jacobs, Jae Jarrell, Wadsworth Jarrell, Daniel LaRue Johnson, Marie Johnson, Walter Jones, Lois Mailou Jones, Barbara Jones-Hogu, Cliff Joseph, Paul Keene, Martin Kilson, Wee Kim, April Kingsley, Hilton Kramer, Jacob Lawrence, Carolyn Lawrence, Don L. Lee, Hughie Lee-Smith, Samella Lewis, Tom Lloyd, Al Loving, Howard Mallory, Earl Roger Mandle, Jan van der Marck, Phillip Mason, James Mellow, Paul Mills, Evangeline J. Montgomery, Toni Morrison, Keith Morrison, Lawrence Neal, Cindy Nemser, Robert Newman, Lorraine O''Grady, Ademola Olugebefola, John Outterbridge, Joe Overstreet, Marion Perkins, Marcy S. Philips, Howardena Pindell, Mimi Poser, Helaine Posner, Noah Purifoy, Ishmael Reed, Gary Rickson, Clayton Riley, Faith Ringgold, Mark Rogovin, Barbara Rose, Joseph Ross, Bayard Rustin, Betye Saar, Raymond Saunders, Robert Sengstacke, David Shapiro, Jeanne Siegel, Thomas Sills, Lowery Stokes Sims, Steve Smith, Beuford Smith, Frank Smith, Val Spalding, Edward Spriggs, Nelson Stevens, James Stewart, Simone Swan, Edward K. Taylor, Alma Thomas, Ruth Waddy, William Walker, Francis and Val Gray Ward, Timothy Washington, Burton Wasserman, Diane Weathers, John Weber, JoAnn Whatley, Charles White, Selena Whitefeather, Jack Whitten, Roy Wilkins, William T. Williams, Gerald Williams, Randy Williams, William Wilson, Hale Woodruff and Cherilyn C. Wright.
Book Synopsis The Soul of a Nation Reader by : Mark Godfrey
Download or read book The Soul of a Nation Reader written by Mark Godfrey and published by Gregory R. Miller. This book was released on 2021-06 with total page 568 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A comprehensive compendium of artists and writers confronting questions of Black identity, activism and social responsibility in the age of Malcolm X and the Black Panthers, based on the landmark traveling exhibition What is "Black art"? This question was posed and answered time and time again between 1960 and 1980 by artists, curators and critics deeply affected by this turbulent period of radical social and political upheaval in America. Rather than answering in one way, they argued for radically different ideas of what "Black art" meant. Across newspapers and magazines, catalogs, pamphlets, interviews, public talks and panel discussions, a lively debate emerged between artists and others to address profound questions of how Black artists should or should not deal with politics, about what audiences they should address and inspire, where they should try to exhibit, how their work should be curated, and whether there was or was not such a category as "Black art" in the first place. Conceived as a reader connected to the landmark exhibition Soul of a Nation: Art in the Age of Black Power, which shone a light on the vital contributions made by Black artists over two decades, this anthology collects over 150 texts from the artists, critics, curators and others who sought to shape and define the art of their time. Exhaustively researched and edited by exhibition curator Mark Godfrey, who provides the substantial introduction, and Allie Biswas, included are rare and out-of-print texts from artists and writers, as well as texts published for the first time ever. Contributors include: Lawrence Alloway, Emma Amos, Benny Andrews, Tomei Arai, Ralph Arnold, Dore Ashton, Malcolm Bailey, Amiri Baraka, Romare Beardon, Fred Beauford, Cleveland Bellow, LeGrace G. Benson, Dawoud Bey, Camille Billops, Lula Mae Blocton, Gloria Bohanon, Claude Booker, Frank Bowling, David Bradford, Peter Bradley, Gwendolyn Brooks, Kay Brown, Milton Brown, Vivian Browne, Linda G. Bryant, Margaret G. Burroughs, Debbie Butterfield, Steve Cannon, Yvonne Parks Catchings, Elizabeth Catlett, Dana Chandler, Claudia Chapline, Charles Childs, A.D. Coleman, Dan Concholar, John Coplans, Hugh M. Davies, Douglas Davis, Bing Davis, Alonzo Davis, Dale Davis, Melvin Dixon, Jeff Donaldson, Robert Doty, Emory Douglas, John Dowell, Louis Draper, David C. Driskell, Tony Eaton, Eugene Eda, Melvin Edwards, Ray Elkins, Ralph Ellison, Elton Fax, Elsa Honig Fine, Frederick Fisk, Babatunde Folayemi, Clebert Ford, Edmund Barry Gaither, Addison Gayle, Henri Ghent, Ray Gibson, Sam Gilliam, Robert H. Glauber, Lynda Goode-Bryant, Allan M. Gordon, Earl G. Graves, Carroll Greene, Abdul Hakimu ibn Halkalimat, David Hammons, David Henderson, Napoleon Henderson, M.J. Hewitt, Richard Hunt, Sam Hunter, Josine Ianco-Starrels, Nigel Jackson, Jay Jacobs, Joseph Jacobs, Jae Jarrell, Wadsworth Jarrell, Daniel LaRue Johnson, Marie Johnson, Walter Jones, Lois Mailou Jones, Barbara Jones-Hogu, Cliff Joseph, Paul Keene, Martin Kilson, Wee Kim, April Kingsley, Hilton Kramer, Jacob Lawrence, Carolyn Lawrence, Don L. Lee, Hughie Lee-Smith, Samella Lewis, Tom Lloyd, Al Loving, Howard Mallory, Earl Roger Mandle, Jan van der Marck, Phillip Mason, James Mellow, Paul Mills, Evangeline J. Montgomery, Toni Morrison, Keith Morrison, Lawrence Neal, Cindy Nemser, Robert Newman, Lorraine O''Grady, Ademola Olugebefola, John Outterbridge, Joe Overstreet, Marion Perkins, Marcy S. Philips, Howardena Pindell, Mimi Poser, Helaine Posner, Noah Purifoy, Ishmael Reed, Gary Rickson, Clayton Riley, Faith Ringgold, Mark Rogovin, Barbara Rose, Joseph Ross, Bayard Rustin, Betye Saar, Raymond Saunders, Robert Sengstacke, David Shapiro, Jeanne Siegel, Thomas Sills, Lowery Stokes Sims, Steve Smith, Beuford Smith, Frank Smith, Val Spalding, Edward Spriggs, Nelson Stevens, James Stewart, Simone Swan, Edward K. Taylor, Alma Thomas, Ruth Waddy, William Walker, Francis and Val Gray Ward, Timothy Washington, Burton Wasserman, Diane Weathers, John Weber, JoAnn Whatley, Charles White, Selena Whitefeather, Jack Whitten, Roy Wilkins, William T. Williams, Gerald Williams, Randy Williams, William Wilson, Hale Woodruff and Cherilyn C. Wright.
Gripping, intelligent and affecting, Due to a Death was nominated for the Gold Dagger Award and showcases the author's versatility and willingness to push the boundaries of the mystery genre. This edition includes an introduction by CWA Diamond Dagger Award-winning author Martin Edwards. A car speeds down a road between miles of marshes and estuary flats, its passenger a young woman named Agnes—hands bloodied, number with fear, her world turned upside down. Meanwhile, the news of a girl found dead on the marsh is spreading round the local area, panic following in its wake. A masterpiece of suspense, Mary Kelly's 1962 novel follows Agnes as she casts her mind back through the past few days to find the links between her husband, his friends, a mysterious stranger new to the village, and a case of unexplained death.
Book Synopsis Due to a Death by : Mary Kelly
Download or read book Due to a Death written by Mary Kelly and published by Sourcebooks, Inc.. This book was released on 2022-05-03 with total page 240 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Gripping, intelligent and affecting, Due to a Death was nominated for the Gold Dagger Award and showcases the author's versatility and willingness to push the boundaries of the mystery genre. This edition includes an introduction by CWA Diamond Dagger Award-winning author Martin Edwards. A car speeds down a road between miles of marshes and estuary flats, its passenger a young woman named Agnes—hands bloodied, number with fear, her world turned upside down. Meanwhile, the news of a girl found dead on the marsh is spreading round the local area, panic following in its wake. A masterpiece of suspense, Mary Kelly's 1962 novel follows Agnes as she casts her mind back through the past few days to find the links between her husband, his friends, a mysterious stranger new to the village, and a case of unexplained death.
This book documents an evolving work of conceptual art about the mother-child relationship begun by Mary Kelly during the 70s and exhibited in the 70s & 80s as an installation, with photographs and analyses of the material evidence of her baby's transition from infancy to the beginnings of independence. It introduced an interrogation of subjectivity by using psychoanalytic theory and focusing on the construction of material femininity.
Book Synopsis Post-partum Document by : Mary Kelly
Download or read book Post-partum Document written by Mary Kelly and published by Routledge. This book was released on 1985 with total page 212 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book documents an evolving work of conceptual art about the mother-child relationship begun by Mary Kelly during the 70s and exhibited in the 70s & 80s as an installation, with photographs and analyses of the material evidence of her baby's transition from infancy to the beginnings of independence. It introduced an interrogation of subjectivity by using psychoanalytic theory and focusing on the construction of material femininity.
