White Walls, Designer Dresses

White Walls, Designer Dresses

Author: Mark Wigley

Publisher: MIT Press

Published: 2001-08-24

Total Pages: 453

ISBN-13: 0262731452

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In a daring revisionist history of modern architecture, Mark Wigley opens up a new understanding of the historical avant-garde. He explores the most obvious, but least discussed, feature of modern architecture: white walls. Although the white wall exemplifies the stripping away of the decorative masquerade costumes worn by nineteenth-century buildings, Wigley argues that modern buildings are not naked. The white wall is itself a form of clothing—the newly athletic body of the building, like that of its occupants, wears a new kind of garment and these garments are meant to match. Not only did almost all modern architects literally design dresses, Wigley points out, their arguments for a modern architecture were taken from the logic of clothing reform. Architecture was understood as a form of dress design. Wigley follows the trajectory of this key subtext by closely reading the statements and designs of most of the protagonists, demonstrating that it renders modern architecture's relationship with the psychosexual economy of fashion much more ambiguous than the architects' endlessly repeated rejections of fashion would suggest. Indeed, Wigley asserts, the very intensity of these rejections is a symptom of how deeply they are embedded in the world of clothing. By drawing on arguments about the relationship between clothing and architecture first formulated in the middle of the nineteenth century, modern architects in fact presented a sophisticated theory of the surface, modernizing architecture by transforming the status of the surface. White Walls, Designer Dresses shows how this seemingly incidental clothing logic actually organizes the detailed design of the modern building, dictating a system of polychromy, understood as a multicolored outfit. The familiar image of modern architecture as white turns out to be the effect of a historiographical tradition that has worked hard to suppress the color of the surfaces of the buildings that it describes. Wigley analyzes this suppression in terms of the sexual logic that invariably accompanies discussions of clothing and color, recovering those sensuously colored surfaces and the extraordinary arguments about clothing that were used to defend them.


Book Synopsis White Walls, Designer Dresses by : Mark Wigley

Download or read book White Walls, Designer Dresses written by Mark Wigley and published by MIT Press. This book was released on 2001-08-24 with total page 453 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In a daring revisionist history of modern architecture, Mark Wigley opens up a new understanding of the historical avant-garde. He explores the most obvious, but least discussed, feature of modern architecture: white walls. Although the white wall exemplifies the stripping away of the decorative masquerade costumes worn by nineteenth-century buildings, Wigley argues that modern buildings are not naked. The white wall is itself a form of clothing—the newly athletic body of the building, like that of its occupants, wears a new kind of garment and these garments are meant to match. Not only did almost all modern architects literally design dresses, Wigley points out, their arguments for a modern architecture were taken from the logic of clothing reform. Architecture was understood as a form of dress design. Wigley follows the trajectory of this key subtext by closely reading the statements and designs of most of the protagonists, demonstrating that it renders modern architecture's relationship with the psychosexual economy of fashion much more ambiguous than the architects' endlessly repeated rejections of fashion would suggest. Indeed, Wigley asserts, the very intensity of these rejections is a symptom of how deeply they are embedded in the world of clothing. By drawing on arguments about the relationship between clothing and architecture first formulated in the middle of the nineteenth century, modern architects in fact presented a sophisticated theory of the surface, modernizing architecture by transforming the status of the surface. White Walls, Designer Dresses shows how this seemingly incidental clothing logic actually organizes the detailed design of the modern building, dictating a system of polychromy, understood as a multicolored outfit. The familiar image of modern architecture as white turns out to be the effect of a historiographical tradition that has worked hard to suppress the color of the surfaces of the buildings that it describes. Wigley analyzes this suppression in terms of the sexual logic that invariably accompanies discussions of clothing and color, recovering those sensuously colored surfaces and the extraordinary arguments about clothing that were used to defend them.


White Walls, Designer Dresses

White Walls, Designer Dresses

Author: Mark Wigley

Publisher:

Published: 1995

Total Pages: 0

ISBN-13:

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Book Synopsis White Walls, Designer Dresses by : Mark Wigley

Download or read book White Walls, Designer Dresses written by Mark Wigley and published by . This book was released on 1995 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:


How Architecture Learned to Speculate

How Architecture Learned to Speculate

Author: Mona Mahall

Publisher: igmade.edition

Published: 2009

Total Pages: 247

ISBN-13: 3000298762

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For the first time, the speculative in architecture becomes a topic of critical research. It is investigated not as idealistic but as strategic acting within endless modernity. This modernity implies that speculation, as strategic acting, is not only applied to economic but also to political and aesthetic values. Values become mobile, valuations become a play with highs and lows, authors (architects) become winners or losers, and culture becomes fashion. Includes projects by NL Architects, MVRDV, Aristide Antonas, FAT, Ralf Schreiber, Pascual Sisto, Ant Farm, Caspar Stracke, OMA, JODI, Kevin Bauman and others. [From publisher's website].


Book Synopsis How Architecture Learned to Speculate by : Mona Mahall

Download or read book How Architecture Learned to Speculate written by Mona Mahall and published by igmade.edition. This book was released on 2009 with total page 247 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: For the first time, the speculative in architecture becomes a topic of critical research. It is investigated not as idealistic but as strategic acting within endless modernity. This modernity implies that speculation, as strategic acting, is not only applied to economic but also to political and aesthetic values. Values become mobile, valuations become a play with highs and lows, authors (architects) become winners or losers, and culture becomes fashion. Includes projects by NL Architects, MVRDV, Aristide Antonas, FAT, Ralf Schreiber, Pascual Sisto, Ant Farm, Caspar Stracke, OMA, JODI, Kevin Bauman and others. [From publisher's website].


The Waste Fix

The Waste Fix

Author: William G. Little

Publisher: Routledge

Published: 2020-03-11

Total Pages: 194

ISBN-13: 1136746838

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First published in 2002. This book explores the philosophical, social, and aesthetic implications of twentieth-century America's obsession with eliminating waste. Through interdisciplinary engagement with fiction and popular culture, William Little traces the way this obsession finds expression in powerful social forces (e.g., the drive to consume conspicuously; the Progressive-era campaign to manage scientifically; the current demand to "reduce, reuse, recycle"), and shows how such forces are governed by an idealism that links proper treatment of waste with the promise of salvation.


Book Synopsis The Waste Fix by : William G. Little

Download or read book The Waste Fix written by William G. Little and published by Routledge. This book was released on 2020-03-11 with total page 194 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: First published in 2002. This book explores the philosophical, social, and aesthetic implications of twentieth-century America's obsession with eliminating waste. Through interdisciplinary engagement with fiction and popular culture, William Little traces the way this obsession finds expression in powerful social forces (e.g., the drive to consume conspicuously; the Progressive-era campaign to manage scientifically; the current demand to "reduce, reuse, recycle"), and shows how such forces are governed by an idealism that links proper treatment of waste with the promise of salvation.


Collours

Collours

Author: Rem Koolhaas

Publisher: Springer Science & Business Media

Published: 2001

Total Pages: 406

ISBN-13: 9783764365691

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"The nature of colour should change -no longer just a thin layer of change, but something that genuinely alters perception" -this stipulation of Rem Koolhaas is echoes by the world famous architects and designers Alessandro Mendini and Norman Foster. In this volume, they present between them a total of 90 colours -each covering half a page -accompanied by comments on the background, the significance and the applications of the colours. Studies of colours from each office form the basis of this book, and were previously only available in extravagant individual editions. With this comprehensive and consistent presentation of the varying approaches to colour, we have a compendium which shows the wide use of colour in today's technologically advanced architecture with its modern, post-modern and deconstructive orientation. The range of examples of the colours in practice includes load-bearing structures, facades, interior design, furnishing and the entire specturm of product design.


Book Synopsis Collours by : Rem Koolhaas

Download or read book Collours written by Rem Koolhaas and published by Springer Science & Business Media. This book was released on 2001 with total page 406 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: "The nature of colour should change -no longer just a thin layer of change, but something that genuinely alters perception" -this stipulation of Rem Koolhaas is echoes by the world famous architects and designers Alessandro Mendini and Norman Foster. In this volume, they present between them a total of 90 colours -each covering half a page -accompanied by comments on the background, the significance and the applications of the colours. Studies of colours from each office form the basis of this book, and were previously only available in extravagant individual editions. With this comprehensive and consistent presentation of the varying approaches to colour, we have a compendium which shows the wide use of colour in today's technologically advanced architecture with its modern, post-modern and deconstructive orientation. The range of examples of the colours in practice includes load-bearing structures, facades, interior design, furnishing and the entire specturm of product design.


Fashion, Performance, and Performativity

Fashion, Performance, and Performativity

Author: Andrea Kollnitz

Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing

Published: 2021-11-18

Total Pages: 286

ISBN-13: 1350106186

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In the first comprehensive study of the interactions between fashion, performance and performativity, a group of international experts explore fashion as the ideal 'complex space' – or, in other words, the ideal space where performance and performativity come together, according to the works of seminal theorists Eve Kosofsky Sedgwick and Andrew Parker. Bringing together western and non-western, historical and contemporary case studies and theories, the book explores the magazines, photography, exhibitions, global colonial divides, digital media, and more, which have become key markers of the fashion industry as we know it today. Using existing literature as a springboard and incorporating perspectives from fashion studies, art history, media studies and gender studies, as well as from artists and practitioners, Fashion, Performance, and Performativity is an innovative and essential work for students, scholars and practitioners across multiple disciplines.


Book Synopsis Fashion, Performance, and Performativity by : Andrea Kollnitz

Download or read book Fashion, Performance, and Performativity written by Andrea Kollnitz and published by Bloomsbury Publishing. This book was released on 2021-11-18 with total page 286 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In the first comprehensive study of the interactions between fashion, performance and performativity, a group of international experts explore fashion as the ideal 'complex space' – or, in other words, the ideal space where performance and performativity come together, according to the works of seminal theorists Eve Kosofsky Sedgwick and Andrew Parker. Bringing together western and non-western, historical and contemporary case studies and theories, the book explores the magazines, photography, exhibitions, global colonial divides, digital media, and more, which have become key markers of the fashion industry as we know it today. Using existing literature as a springboard and incorporating perspectives from fashion studies, art history, media studies and gender studies, as well as from artists and practitioners, Fashion, Performance, and Performativity is an innovative and essential work for students, scholars and practitioners across multiple disciplines.


House of Fashion

House of Fashion

Author: Jess Berry

Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing

Published: 2018-07-12

Total Pages: 232

ISBN-13: 1474283411

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Since Charles Fredrick Worth established his luxurious Maison de Couture in 1858, the interior has played a crucial role in the display of fashion. House of Fashion provides a full historical account of the interplay between fashion and the modern interior, demonstrating how they continue to function as a site for performing modern, gendered identities for designers and their clientele alike. In doing so, it traces how designers including Poiret, Vionnet, Schiaparelli and Dior used commercial spaces and domestic interiors to enhance their credentials as connoisseurs of taste and style. Taking us from the early years of haute couture to the luxury fashion of the present day, Berry explores how the salon, the atelier and the boutique have allowed fashion to move beyond the aesthetics of dress, to embrace the visual seduction of the theatrical, artistic, and the exotic. From the Art Deco allure of Coco Chanel's Maison to the luminous spaces of contemporary flagship stores, House of Fashion sets out fashion's links with key figures in architecture and design, including Louis Süe, Robert Mallet-Stevens, Eileen Gray, and Jean-Michel Frank. Drawing on photographs, advertisements, paintings and illustrations, this interdisciplinary study examines how fashionable interiors have shaped our understanding of architecture, dress, and elegance.


Book Synopsis House of Fashion by : Jess Berry

Download or read book House of Fashion written by Jess Berry and published by Bloomsbury Publishing. This book was released on 2018-07-12 with total page 232 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Since Charles Fredrick Worth established his luxurious Maison de Couture in 1858, the interior has played a crucial role in the display of fashion. House of Fashion provides a full historical account of the interplay between fashion and the modern interior, demonstrating how they continue to function as a site for performing modern, gendered identities for designers and their clientele alike. In doing so, it traces how designers including Poiret, Vionnet, Schiaparelli and Dior used commercial spaces and domestic interiors to enhance their credentials as connoisseurs of taste and style. Taking us from the early years of haute couture to the luxury fashion of the present day, Berry explores how the salon, the atelier and the boutique have allowed fashion to move beyond the aesthetics of dress, to embrace the visual seduction of the theatrical, artistic, and the exotic. From the Art Deco allure of Coco Chanel's Maison to the luminous spaces of contemporary flagship stores, House of Fashion sets out fashion's links with key figures in architecture and design, including Louis Süe, Robert Mallet-Stevens, Eileen Gray, and Jean-Michel Frank. Drawing on photographs, advertisements, paintings and illustrations, this interdisciplinary study examines how fashionable interiors have shaped our understanding of architecture, dress, and elegance.


Organizing Color

Organizing Color

Author: Timon Beyes

Publisher: Stanford University Press

Published: 2024-03-12

Total Pages: 330

ISBN-13: 1503638626

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We live in a world that is saturated with color, but how should we make sense of color's force and capacities? This book develops a theory of color as fundamental medium of the social. Constructed as a montage of scenes from the past two hundred years, Organizing Color demonstrates how the interests of capital, management, governance, science, and the arts have wrestled with colour's allure and flux. Beyes takes readers from Goethe's chocolate experiments in search of chromatic transformation to nineteenth-century Scottish cotton mills designed to modulate workers' moods and productivity, from the colonial production of Indigo in India to globalized categories of skin colorism and their disavowal. Tracing the consumption, control and excess of industrial and digital color, other chapters stage encounters with the literary chromatics of Pynchon's Gravity's Rainbow processing the machinery of the chemical industries, the red of political revolt in Godard's films, and the blur of education and critique in Steyerl's Adorno's Grey. Contributing to a more general reconsideration of aesthetic capitalism and the role of sensory media, this book seeks to pioneer a theory of social organization—a "chromatics of organizing"—that is attuned to the protean and world-making capacity of color.


Book Synopsis Organizing Color by : Timon Beyes

Download or read book Organizing Color written by Timon Beyes and published by Stanford University Press. This book was released on 2024-03-12 with total page 330 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: We live in a world that is saturated with color, but how should we make sense of color's force and capacities? This book develops a theory of color as fundamental medium of the social. Constructed as a montage of scenes from the past two hundred years, Organizing Color demonstrates how the interests of capital, management, governance, science, and the arts have wrestled with colour's allure and flux. Beyes takes readers from Goethe's chocolate experiments in search of chromatic transformation to nineteenth-century Scottish cotton mills designed to modulate workers' moods and productivity, from the colonial production of Indigo in India to globalized categories of skin colorism and their disavowal. Tracing the consumption, control and excess of industrial and digital color, other chapters stage encounters with the literary chromatics of Pynchon's Gravity's Rainbow processing the machinery of the chemical industries, the red of political revolt in Godard's films, and the blur of education and critique in Steyerl's Adorno's Grey. Contributing to a more general reconsideration of aesthetic capitalism and the role of sensory media, this book seeks to pioneer a theory of social organization—a "chromatics of organizing"—that is attuned to the protean and world-making capacity of color.


"Textiles, Fashion, and Design Reform in Austria-Hungary Before the First World War "

Author: Rebecca Houze

Publisher: Routledge

Published: 2017-07-05

Total Pages: 470

ISBN-13: 1351546880

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Filling a critical gap in Vienna 1900 studies, this book offers a new reading of fin-de-si?e culture in the Austro-Hungarian Monarchy by looking at the unusual and widespread preoccupation with embroidery, fabrics, clothing, and fashion - both literally and metaphorically. The author resurrects lesser known critics, practitioners, and curators from obscurity, while also discussing the textile interests of better known figures, notably Gottfried Semper and Alois Riegl. Spanning the 50-year life of the Dual Monarchy, this study uncovers new territory in the history of art history, insists on the crucial place of women within modernism, and broadens the cultural history of Habsburg Central Europe by revealing the complex relationships among art history, women, and Austria-Hungary. Rebecca Houze surveys a wide range of materials, from craft and folk art to industrial design, and includes overlooked sources-from fashion magazines to World's Fair maps, from exhibition catalogues to museum lectures, from feminist journals to ethnographic collections. Restoring women to their place at the intersection of intellectual and artistic debates of the time, this book weaves together discourses of the academic, scientific, and commercial design communities with middle-class life as expressed through popular culture.


Book Synopsis "Textiles, Fashion, and Design Reform in Austria-Hungary Before the First World War " by : Rebecca Houze

Download or read book "Textiles, Fashion, and Design Reform in Austria-Hungary Before the First World War " written by Rebecca Houze and published by Routledge. This book was released on 2017-07-05 with total page 470 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Filling a critical gap in Vienna 1900 studies, this book offers a new reading of fin-de-si?e culture in the Austro-Hungarian Monarchy by looking at the unusual and widespread preoccupation with embroidery, fabrics, clothing, and fashion - both literally and metaphorically. The author resurrects lesser known critics, practitioners, and curators from obscurity, while also discussing the textile interests of better known figures, notably Gottfried Semper and Alois Riegl. Spanning the 50-year life of the Dual Monarchy, this study uncovers new territory in the history of art history, insists on the crucial place of women within modernism, and broadens the cultural history of Habsburg Central Europe by revealing the complex relationships among art history, women, and Austria-Hungary. Rebecca Houze surveys a wide range of materials, from craft and folk art to industrial design, and includes overlooked sources-from fashion magazines to World's Fair maps, from exhibition catalogues to museum lectures, from feminist journals to ethnographic collections. Restoring women to their place at the intersection of intellectual and artistic debates of the time, this book weaves together discourses of the academic, scientific, and commercial design communities with middle-class life as expressed through popular culture.


Sport and modernism in the visual arts in Europe, c. 1909–39

Sport and modernism in the visual arts in Europe, c. 1909–39

Author: Bernard Vere

Publisher: Manchester University Press

Published: 2018-03-06

Total Pages: 288

ISBN-13: 1526126818

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This book highlights sport as one of the key inspirations for an international range of modernist artists. Sport emerged as a corollary of the industrial revolution and developed into a prominent facet of modernity as it spread across Europe at the turn of the twentieth century. It was celebrated by modernists both for its spectacle and for the suggestive ways in which society could be remodelled on dynamic, active and rational lines. Artists included sport themes in a wide variety of media and frequently referenced it in their own writings. Sport was also political, most notably under fascist and Soviet regimes, but also in democratic countries, and the works produced by modernists engage with various ideologies. This book provides new readings of aspects of a number of avant-garde movements, including Italian futurism, cubism, German expressionism, Le Corbusier's architecture, Soviet constructivism, Italian rationalism and the Bauhaus.


Book Synopsis Sport and modernism in the visual arts in Europe, c. 1909–39 by : Bernard Vere

Download or read book Sport and modernism in the visual arts in Europe, c. 1909–39 written by Bernard Vere and published by Manchester University Press. This book was released on 2018-03-06 with total page 288 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book highlights sport as one of the key inspirations for an international range of modernist artists. Sport emerged as a corollary of the industrial revolution and developed into a prominent facet of modernity as it spread across Europe at the turn of the twentieth century. It was celebrated by modernists both for its spectacle and for the suggestive ways in which society could be remodelled on dynamic, active and rational lines. Artists included sport themes in a wide variety of media and frequently referenced it in their own writings. Sport was also political, most notably under fascist and Soviet regimes, but also in democratic countries, and the works produced by modernists engage with various ideologies. This book provides new readings of aspects of a number of avant-garde movements, including Italian futurism, cubism, German expressionism, Le Corbusier's architecture, Soviet constructivism, Italian rationalism and the Bauhaus.